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Author
Language
English
Appears on list
Description
Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished...
Publisher
IFC Films
Pub. Date
[2018]
Language
English
Description
Laird Hamilton is perhaps the greatest big wave surfer of all time, a living legend who has tamed some of the world's mightiest waves. Amongst the surf community, he is also one of the most controversial figures, an innovator who has revolutionized the sport often to the dismay of purists. This thrilling, up-close portrait traces Hamilton's remarkable journey, from his rebellious childhood in Hawaii to his fearless first forays into surfing to his...
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