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Author
Language
English
Appears on list
Description
**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography**
Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List
“Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine
Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is...
Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List
“Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine
Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is...
Author
Series
Language
English
Description
Set amid the spontaneous, uninhibited surf culture of Malibu and Mexico in the late 1970s, this riveting memoir, written in crisp Hemingwayesque prose, recalls Ollestad's childhood and the magnetic man whose determination and love infuriated and inspired him--and ultimately saved his life.
Publisher
IFC Films
Pub. Date
[2018]
Language
English
Description
Laird Hamilton is perhaps the greatest big wave surfer of all time, a living legend who has tamed some of the world's mightiest waves. Amongst the surf community, he is also one of the most controversial figures, an innovator who has revolutionized the sport often to the dismay of purists. This thrilling, up-close portrait traces Hamilton's remarkable journey, from his rebellious childhood in Hawaii to his fearless first forays into surfing to his...
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